Fashion Week: Dai Fujiwara
There's something humbling about Dai Fujiwara as he addresses a packed out lecture theatre at Melbourne's RMIT. Maybe it's his interpretation of the English language or perhaps his stereotypically petite Japanese frame? Whichever it is the creative director of Issey Miyake certainly manages to win over his patient listeners with a rare and insightful talk about the brand that many (including myself) had left behind in the nineties.
"Well-worn books in the library" are discussed by lecturer Robyn Healy before introducing Dai to the stage. It's a clear indication to the long-lasting love affair we as a nation have with Mr Miyake. Invited by the University to speak in conjunction with the current exhibition The Endless Garment (curated by Robyn Healy) and as part of the LMFF schedule, Dai journeyed with us into his world of rounded simplicity and daring innovation.
Speaking predominately on his A-POC concept which he developed back in 1998 Dai touched on notions of the highly topical sustainable design and the incredibly Eastern approach to dressing the human body. As a man who has the rare ability to fuse science with beauty Dai explains how his ongoing relationship with technology led him to A-POC.
The design "system" as he classes it challenged the way we perceive cloth via a computer-programmed knitting machine that creates tubular lengths of fabric with pre-set patterns inside. No longer constricted to the conventional methods of garment construction A-POC uniquely allowed people to cut the fabric themselves following pre-made guidelines that welcomed a new dialogue of genderless and ageless design. This unique approach to fashion not only focussed on less fabric waste but also contributed to a widening trend in integrated design with higher customer engagement.
Seemingly always two steps ahead of the more "trend"" led fashion pack the Miyake brand became as much about self-education as it did about educating the customer. Teaching us the relationship between clothing and the body was another unique concept that the 4 Dimensional design philosophy routed within A-POC stood to represent. A-POC (A Piece Of Cloth) A-POS (A Piece Of String) A-POM (A Piece Of Machine) and A-POE (A Piece Of Education). Almost childlike in its simplicity this 4-part explanation perfectly depicts the slowed down and unfolding way in which Dai's mind works.
A we listen attentively and giggle at his pronunciation of the word ""vacuumer"" stories of colour research trips to the Amazon Jungle - where they scientifically investigate the colour of leaves water and soil - help us understand his love for acute detail and the poetic language of texture colour and line within fashion. His emotionally connected outlook later reveals his childhood love for the wind and how this subsequently led to the highly inventive collaboration with Dyson vacuums.
The collaborative attitude is something which underlines a key relationship style within the Miyake team. Again a clear learning process for them the collaborative method usually welcomes architects scientists or product designers who are in no way obviously connected to fashion. During the talk Dai points out furniture designer Ron Arad and Mathematician William Thurston to justify this point and explain how the two can happily join together and form innovative new design.
He concludes with a video of the latest Autumn/Winter collection which took place in Paris earlier this month. Appropriately drawing the evening to a close the mathematical inspired collection draws on the aforementioned Thurston with the consolidated conception of ""beautiful geometry"". Shapes and models relating to the universe inform mathematical inspired tubular constructions that drape around the body in a colourful balance between scientific formulae and aesthetically pleasing art. As the final model steps out onto the catwalk we begin to applaud not only to the fabulous collection but to Dai Fujiwara himself and his rare and beautifully intelligent mind.
Words: Tilly Pearman
Photos: Holly Childs
"Well-worn books in the library" are discussed by lecturer Robyn Healy before introducing Dai to the stage. It's a clear indication to the long-lasting love affair we as a nation have with Mr Miyake. Invited by the University to speak in conjunction with the current exhibition The Endless Garment (curated by Robyn Healy) and as part of the LMFF schedule, Dai journeyed with us into his world of rounded simplicity and daring innovation.
Speaking predominately on his A-POC concept which he developed back in 1998 Dai touched on notions of the highly topical sustainable design and the incredibly Eastern approach to dressing the human body. As a man who has the rare ability to fuse science with beauty Dai explains how his ongoing relationship with technology led him to A-POC.
The design "system" as he classes it challenged the way we perceive cloth via a computer-programmed knitting machine that creates tubular lengths of fabric with pre-set patterns inside. No longer constricted to the conventional methods of garment construction A-POC uniquely allowed people to cut the fabric themselves following pre-made guidelines that welcomed a new dialogue of genderless and ageless design. This unique approach to fashion not only focussed on less fabric waste but also contributed to a widening trend in integrated design with higher customer engagement.
Seemingly always two steps ahead of the more "trend"" led fashion pack the Miyake brand became as much about self-education as it did about educating the customer. Teaching us the relationship between clothing and the body was another unique concept that the 4 Dimensional design philosophy routed within A-POC stood to represent. A-POC (A Piece Of Cloth) A-POS (A Piece Of String) A-POM (A Piece Of Machine) and A-POE (A Piece Of Education). Almost childlike in its simplicity this 4-part explanation perfectly depicts the slowed down and unfolding way in which Dai's mind works.
A we listen attentively and giggle at his pronunciation of the word ""vacuumer"" stories of colour research trips to the Amazon Jungle - where they scientifically investigate the colour of leaves water and soil - help us understand his love for acute detail and the poetic language of texture colour and line within fashion. His emotionally connected outlook later reveals his childhood love for the wind and how this subsequently led to the highly inventive collaboration with Dyson vacuums.
The collaborative attitude is something which underlines a key relationship style within the Miyake team. Again a clear learning process for them the collaborative method usually welcomes architects scientists or product designers who are in no way obviously connected to fashion. During the talk Dai points out furniture designer Ron Arad and Mathematician William Thurston to justify this point and explain how the two can happily join together and form innovative new design.
He concludes with a video of the latest Autumn/Winter collection which took place in Paris earlier this month. Appropriately drawing the evening to a close the mathematical inspired collection draws on the aforementioned Thurston with the consolidated conception of ""beautiful geometry"". Shapes and models relating to the universe inform mathematical inspired tubular constructions that drape around the body in a colourful balance between scientific formulae and aesthetically pleasing art. As the final model steps out onto the catwalk we begin to applaud not only to the fabulous collection but to Dai Fujiwara himself and his rare and beautifully intelligent mind.
Words: Tilly Pearman
Photos: Holly Childs
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