The Last Time I Saw Matilda, Absorb’s latest fashion film collaboration with fashion photographer Justin Ridler captures model Matilda Price in looks from some of Australia’s favourite homegrown independent designers.
In a meandering collection of Ridler's images, we see stunning garments from Fleur Wood, Yeojin Bae, Arabella Ramsay, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Mezi and accessories by Mania Mania as a young, free-spirited girl wanders about the sundrenched countryside of the rugged headlands in NSW.
Described as, “an ode to fleeting memory and the beauty of lasting encounters,” the film translates the elegant yet uninhibited styling of stylist Chiara Bianchino and the exceptional photographic style of Ridler into a beautiful, ethereal short film.
Absorb’s latest short fashion film collaboration showcases the SS11 range by Aussie designer swimwear label We Are Handsome. Get ready for a vivid, polychromatic montage of 80’s film and television references, lots of glitter, and some seriously cool swimsuits. Can you believe it was shot in the middle of a Westfield shopping centre using mobile phones? Check out the film and these awesome images from the shoot by James Nash.
I’m sure you’re aware of the recent shifts in consumer buying behaviour; our smaller boutiques and labels are suffering at the hands of international online rag-trader giants as Aussies turn to overseas markets for a competitive deal. Now more than ever, our independent designers need support to keep them afloat in this current retail crisis.
So what's the appeal in purchasing independent fashion? We discussed the difference in quality and exclusivity in Series One of our Independent Designer articles. But what about good old-fashioned shopping? I’m not talking about trawling through website after website, online store after online store. I know it’s rather convenient to shop online at times, especially when it means you don’t have to immerse yourself in a car-park battle or even get out of your pjs, but lets not forget the physical experience of shopping. Online shopping is a great way to browse products and help us quickly find what we are looking for, but the disconnection and lack of physical interaction only increases the difficulty choosing your product and post purchase dissonance.
Phoebe Garland, co-owner of Garland & Garland Fashion, a leading Sydney-based fashion agency believes we need to recognise the contribution independent fashion has made by reinforcing the personal service and the wonderful relationships you can have with the smaller boutiques and buying from Australian retailers.
“These smaller retailers have contributed significantly to building these multinational apparel companies. And, these are the retailers that are really suffering. They simply do not have the luxury of operating on the higher margins the chains stores and vertical operators do and they have quite often been lining the pockets of the big apparel companies for years,” she said.
Customer service is a notion most of us have consigned to oblivion now that we have the option of online shopping, but it plays a very large role in customer satisfaction and positive brand image. The physical connection between the consumer and a product is imperative, and it is the customer service that can help facilitate a positive outcome in the end.
It seems department stores and large fashion retailers pay little attention to customer service, which is interesting considering the vast competition from online stores and overseas e-boutiques. So if you are after knowledgeable and friendly staff who virtually live and breathe fashion, head to smaller boutiques and independent retailers.
There is nothing quite like stepping into your favourite boutique and knowing you will be greeted, assisted and treated like a friend rather than a potential buyer. You won’t have to search five floors and numerous un-manned counters, or have to deal with stroppy sales assistants who are more interested in simply making sales than helping you find the perfect garment. Although boutiques generally employ less staff, this allows more time for training and ensuring they employ the ideal candidate for the job.
Skill shortages are also not a problem as many independents employ ‘stylists’ as opposed to sales assistants, whose role is to assist the customer in finding the perfect garment using their broad knowledge of fashion and the particular brand.
Celebrity Stylist, Amber Renee agrees that stylists can drastically enhance the shopping experience by providing independent, educated advice to assist the consumer in selecting the best possible garment in the least stressful manner. She also notes that stylists advice is generally not biased as they are not pressured by sales targets or under any conflict of interest.
“If the stylist is educated on body shapes and skin tones they can provide advice that relates directly to that customer – rather than show what’s been the ‘best seller’ or ‘what everyone loves’.”
Online fashion-media website, Absorb presents 'Runaway', the beautiful new fashion film about a runaway who discovers the wintry rural countryside in a selection of Autumn knitwear by the likes of Ginger and Smart, Jessica O’Conner, Pol Design, LuLu Rouge, Sabatini and Christopher Esber.
Starring model Angelique from EMG and filmed by Costa Vakas, the film was shot amongst cattle and llamas in fields surrounding the rural town of Berry, just a few hours south of Sydney.
To accompany the short, photographer Rodney Ye also captured a series of alluring images of the shirting and knitwear story titled, 'Journey the Fields' (pictured above).
Film: By Costa Vakas
Stylist: Chiara Bianchino
Makeup: Chereine Waddell
Hair Stylist: James Nash
Model: Angelique from EMG
Australia has an extraordinary independent fashion scene. The young emerging designers we saw at MSFW recently did not disappoint, with many showing signs of promising careers. At a time when Aussie retailers are flailing within a market that shows no signs of budging, independent and emerging designers need our support now more than ever. It’s crucial the fashion community gets behind our independents, or risk loosing them to international retail giants such as ASOS, Zara, Topshop, H&M and Urban Outfitters.
Let us consider how some of our favourite designers began. Prominent labels such as Arnsdorf, Thurley and Dhini did not materialise overnight, and their success most certainly cannot be attributed to luck. Aside from devoting countless hours to the development of their labels, access to support networks and backing from industry professionals proved crucial in leveraging their brands. Keep in mind, many young designers lack access to funding, thus inhibiting their ability to reach out and connect with consumers. Without the support of third-party organisations, many of our favourite brands would cease to exist. But thanks to the rise and the current popularity of fashion festivals, events and online forums, our independent fashion community can now breathe a sigh of relief.
It sometimes seems as though fashion festivals such as MSFW, RAFW and LMFF exist for the promotion of established designers, for VIPs, celebrities and the fashion elite to swan around in their high-end designer ensembles. I’m not going to deny, this element of fashion festivals does interest. However did you know such festivals are strategically planned to help bridge the gap between our independent designers and the public?
Program Director of Fashion at RMIT and Former Director of LMFF, Karen Webster believes events such as LMFF have helped shape Australian fashion.
“The fashion industry here in Melbourne and in Australia is in a very different place now. I think we have a really buoyant and dynamic independent designer market. Now you can base yourself in Melbourne and sell to London and Paris. That can only happen if we win the hearts and souls of people in the street, if they feel good about fashion,” she said.
Making it within the fashion world is challenging enough, but to survive, flourish and stay afloat is another thing altogether. Fashion festivals and online communities such as Streetfash have helped spur a backlash against fast-fashion and the poor quality of garments manufactured by ubiquitous retailers. We have noticed a transformation in the local fashion industry in attempt to offset this movement. The quality of independent designers products is only increasing as backing within the industry and general community grows. The challenge is to steer consumers away from accepting inferior quality clothing and to stamp out that ‘disposable’ mentality of the fashion industry, by educating and promoting our diligent homegrown designers. Otherwise they will be completely overlooked.
We must applaud the independent fashion community and their support networks on their efforts in keeping the art of fashion alive within this country. Support your local independent fashion.
We have seen an enormous shift in consumer buying behaviour since the concept of ‘Etail’ first rocked our shopping world, and the soaring Aussie Dollar has only added fuel to this very large fire. Australian retail sales are dwindling before our eyes as we charge towards offshore markets for a fashionable-bargain. While purchasing from an overseas online store all seems well and good in theory, have you ever really stopped to think about why that high-fashion retailer is offering you (and every-man-and-their-dog) such a seemingly great offer?
I have two words for you. Mass production. It’s all about churning out large volumes of product, at an absolute minimal cost, resulting in enormous revenue for manufacturers. So of course, something’s got to give. And it’s generally, (always) the quality. Not to mention the fact there are approximately five million other twenty-something women waltzing around in that very same, top. I don’t know about you, but that’s certainly not my cup of tea.
“What’s the alternative?” I hear you say. Get behind our homegrown Independent Designers. Sure, the attraction to shopping at retail giants lies in the premise of snagging a bargain or two, but if you consider yourself a bit of a fashionista, quality and exclusivity will most likely outweigh the cost. But don’t be disheartened; the word ‘designer’ is not always associated with ‘designer’ prices. You’ll find that many of our young up-and coming designers and even established independent designer’s collections are becoming rather affordable. After all, they are having to compete with chain stores and now overseas online retailers at a time when retail spending is at an all-time low. Thus, the proliferation of reasonably-priced designer fashion. This of course, is in relation to how the product is manufactured and the materials used.
Independent designers often manufacture in Australia as opposed to offshore. This ensures quality and also ethical workplace standards. The use of high quality fibers and materials is ensured when purchasing independent fashion- items are also likely to last longer and function as great wardrobe ‘staples’. Additionally, many garments by independent designers are handmade or have handmade elements, which ensures individuality and quality. As they say, “you get what you pay for” and if it is quality, uniqueness, comfort and beauty, then give those mediocre, rag-traders the flick in favour of our Independent Designers.
For an example of great independent fashion check out the amazing pics from Orri Henrisson's AW10 collection. Streetfash will be stocking Orri Henrisson SS11/12 when it drops in a few weeks.
Australian accessory label VIRR joined forces with local film-makers, Nicolo Bianchino & Mark Trzopek to create a mysterious short fashion film, ‘Vanity of Wishes’ as part of the No Home Fashion + Film project in 2011.
Through beautiful hazy and unfocused representations, VIRR uncover the elusive beauty and often-ambiguous nature of those fleeting moments prior to a couple’s first encounter. The stunning film explores the intricacies of the emotions between a couple, and gives viewers the opportunity to discover hidden meanings correlating with words and events of the film. Thus, offering a chance to reflect on ones own personal perspective of the imagery and poetry.
Shot in a room of a quintessential Aussie pub in Sydney, the film reveals an old-world and esoteric philosophy, carried by the narration of the great English poem, ‘The Vanity of Human Wishes’, which was the influence behind the VIRR’s current accessory range.
The film features exquisite pieces from VIRR’s latest accessory collection, some of which are now available from Streetfash.
Today marked the opening of the RMIT Student Exhibition at the No Vacancy Gallery, as part of the MSFW Emerging Designer Series. The exhibition titled 3 ¾, puts the spotlight on the designs of 16 talented final year RMIT students, who have the opportunity to present their own experimental, theoretical and abstract expressions of fashion and design.
Rather than showcasing the final product of fashion design in the form of garments in a collection, the exhibition celebrates the entire design process, emphasising the need to challenge the ‘conventional’ representation of fashion. Students were encouraged to experiment with a range of design processes, which are documented in the spectacular installations, animations, images and sculptures on display at the No Vacancy Gallery.
It’s clear these students know their stuff; just listening them explain the purpose of their remarkable works was inspiring, let along having the opportunity to experience first-hand, the sheer merit of their work. You will be hard-pressed to find a group of students as passionate about their craft as these budding fashion designers.
Alana Hersh’s design statement titled, ‘Textilis’ explores the amalgamation of architecture and fashion from 2D to 3D, in the form of a stunning silk/organza installation.
“I’ve used a range of techniques such as weaving, crocheting, pleating, braiding and knotting to discuss the idea of decoration and surface, and to determine whether decoration is superficial or if it can be embodied,” she said.
Those who question the substance of the fashion industry and fashion design as a trade, will most certainly be proven wrong upon viewing the incredible student exhibits. It is obvious that hours upon hours of painstaking labour, planning and speculation have gone into the development of the 16 creative displays, of which are all stunning representations of fashion as an expressive medium. Perhaps the exhibition helps explain the paradox of the frivolity of the fashion industry, through the attempt to encourage individuals to engage with fashion in a new and different way.
Student Meghan Hutchens explored this very notion in her exhibit titled ‘Fashion Image’. Through a series of images and stills, Hutchens unpacks the fashion process to demonstrate the crucial stages of the design process. From conceptualization, to interdisciplinary collaboration and communication, she explores the notion of fashion as, “everything but the garment.”
The MSFW RMIT Student Exhibition gives students the unique opportunity to not only present their inimitable works and designs in a public forum, but to also test their individual design concepts for their potential to create a collection in the future. This is a free event, open to the public from Tuesday 6 September to Sunday 18 September.
Melbourne Street Fashion is a proud supporter of the Spotlight MSFW Emerging Designer Series. To celebrate our support of the Emerging Designer Series, we're giving away two double passes to two MSFW 2011 runway events. But be quick, the prizes are held on Friday and Saturday!
New Zealand-based menswear label,I Love Ugly have kicked off their Spring 2011 collection with a bang, releasing an idiosyncratic collaborative short film titled ‘A Conventional Camouflage’.
The film embraces concepts of their latest range, also titled ‘A Conventional Camouflage’, inviting viewers into the quintessential I Love Ugly world of unique textures, patterns and unorthodox design
From its humble beginnings as a small T-shirt label, the label’s founder, illustrator and designer, Valentin Ozich has successfully transformed I Love Ugly into one of News Zealand’s leading menswear labels. The slightly eccentric take on classic pieces and designs has attracted a cult following; the label is now well known for obscuring the lines between fashion and art to create enduring collections, successfully bucking the transient nature of the fashion industry.
Designs by I Love Ugly are available now at the Streetfash online store here: I Love Ugly.
Congratulations to RMIT fashion student, Anisha Bhoyro who won the 2011 RMIT Student Prize as part of the Melbourne Spring Fashion Week (MSFW) Spotlight Emerging Designer Series.
The MSFW Emerging Designer exhibition is the first major public exhibition for the talented young Melbourne designer, who has been making and experimenting with clothes from an early age.
Bhoyro designed her collection, Precious Threads with the polarisation of the fashion world in mind. Her garments are based on the concept of reviving old-world values in order to impede the all too common notion of ‘fast-fashion’, and the disposable nature of the industry.
“I have developed a new system of garment cutting and construction based on manipulations of yarns within cloth. The resulting garments are intricate, precious pieces which oppose the throw away mentality of fast fashion,” said Bhoyro.
Her creations are carefully constructed to deliver a unique and elaborate aesthetic, of which demand closer inspection in order to discover the, “intelligent, refined and understated luxury.”
Influenced by film photographer Rodney Smith, and inspired by the
elegance of certain people in her life, Bhoyro hopes her unique designs
will not be compromised by the mainstream disposition of the fashion
industry, in the future.
“In three years I hope to still be learning, designing, creating and
perfecting my craft. I hope that I will not fall into a position where
the commercial side of the fashion industry overtakes my design
passion,” said Bhoyro.
Bhoyro won the prestigious award after presenting her collection at the launch of the MSFW Spotlight Emerging Designers Exhibition, at 1000 Pound Bend in Melbourne on Monday 29 August. The prize includes an all expenses paid trip to Milan where she will undertake an internship with a renowned fashion house of her choice, before returning to MSFW next year to fulfill her duties as the 2012 RMIT Student Ambassador.
Melbourne Street Fashion is a proud sponsor of the 2011 MSFW Emerging Designer Series. Events of the series include:
Spotlight Emerging Designer Exhibition (29 August – 11 September) – 1000 Pound Bend
Spotlight RMIT Student Exhibition (6 – 18 September) – No Vacancy Gallery
Spotlight RMIT Student Runway (10 September – 6.30pm and 9pm) – Melbourne Town Hall
Spotlight RMIT Alumni Exhibition (5 – 11 September) – Lobby, Grand Hyatt Melbourne
Livia Arena's latest collection is now available through the Streetfash online store.
Melbourne based designer Livia Arena’s second collection, ‘The Gathering’ is the product of a collaboration with Melbourne jeweller Deirdre Hoban. Inspired by Hoban’s use of washed-out tones and their mutual admiration for the aesthetics of each other’s designs, the pair have created a classic yet feminine Spring Summer 11/12 collection, incorporating elements of both labels.
“Deirdre and I were introduced to each other by a mutual friend and we threw the idea about for a while. Then all of a sudden, we were working on the Summer collection together. I think it just seemed like a normal thing to do, especially when you consider that we’re both kind of just starting out and I guess it’s easier to collaborate at that point,” said Arena.
The first Summer collection from the Livia Arena label includes beautifully tailored pieces, striking silhouettes and that signature Livia Arena subtle detailing which adds a little luxury to each piece. The partnership of the two designers has certainly given Arena’s designs a fresh perspective, her latest line emanating a strong feminine aesthetic whilst maintaining her prominent classic style.
Although she admits to being cowardly with colour, Arena saw Summer as the perfect opportunity to offset the typically clean lines of her own designs, by referencing Hoban’s soft colour palette.
“I was immediately taken by her sense of colour. I am really reluctant to use colour, but I was very aware that for Summer, colour is actually really important... I think it’s ended up being a lot more feminine than the clothes I create when I work alone,” said Arena.
It’s attention to detail such as the presence of the unique custom print, which makes this collection so distinctive and appealing. The colourful spotted print was the outcome of both artists’ desires to make the collection representative of the hand-made nature of Hoban’s work and the texture of her ceramics. The process involved Hoban creating a large spotted ceramic plate, which was then photographed and manipulated to form the repeatable print now a feature of this collection.
The innovative collection is also composed entirely of natural fibres including high quality silk, cotton and linen, (and combinations of the three) making the clothing light, breathable and ideal for Summer dressing.
After completing a Bachelor of Arts and a Bachelor of Science at Melbourne University, Arena enrolled in a design course at RMIT before taking a graduate job as a corporate banker. Thankfully, she finally gave into her creative side, thus began the namesake label Livia Arena. Although she felt a career in design conflicted with her previous education, it is clear her escape from the corporate world has inspired her design process; her collections an amalgamation of structure and uninhibited femininity.
My Boyfriend’s Unreal is the first film project for Melbourne fashion label Upper Left Arm, released as part of the No Home project in Melbourne in March 2011.
While No Home encouraged the collaboration between local designers and film makers, Upper Left Arm’s charming short saw local designers Jac Eddy and Kasia Tons jump into the directors chairs to produce the fashion film on their own. The result, a playful and endearing depiction of a teenage love story, inspired by the imagination and lust of youth.
Exploring the theme of awkward adolescence from the label’s debut clothing range for Autumn/ Winter 2011, ‘Wag it’, the film captures the naive and funny moments of teenage lust both real and/or imagined. Harmony Byrne captures the adolescent inspiration of ULA’s designs brilliantly through her role as the romantic juvenile lead, her cheerful grin and spirited air resonating with the youthful attire.
Eddy and Tons demonstrate their raw aesthetic style through the filming, colourful make-up and accessories which melds perfectly with the backdrop of beautiful music by Brunswick musicians Oscar + Martin. This quirky story about a girl and almost a boy certainly gives context to the label’s signature designs.
Directors: Jac Eddy and Kasia Tons
Producers: Jac Eddy and Kasia Tons
Cast: Harmony Byrne and Lachlan Beggs
Music: Oscar + Martin (represented by two bright lakes)
